The Atelier Cologne range is for the cologne lover in you
Atelier Cologne hasn’t been doing the rounds for long but it’s already achieved a cult following. I had heard of it through the grapevine – or the perfume blogger community more precisely, so when I found out Sylvie Ganter, one of the co-founders of the brand (the other one being her husband Christophe Cervasel), was giving a talk at London’s specialist perfumery Les Senteurs, I decided to check it out.
And thus I had the chance to try most of their 11- scent range, whose motto seems to be “we’ll bang out an awesome cologne from ANY material” – it was quite a revelation actually because fresh can mean so many things and the Atelier Cologne range manages to capture the word even with sultrier ingredients. Ganter, who is an energetic and involving speaker, revealed that her one failed attempt at applying the concept was brandy: they just can’t get a boozy cologne right… YET.
The presentation came on the heels of the launch of their new perfume Mistral Patchouli. MP is reminiscent of the seaside breeze with the help of a healthy serving of sheer patchouli. It’s salty and exhilarating, the way a you feel on a sunny day at the beach, just as spring is waning into summer. There’s none of that overcooking it with calone. You don’t smell the sea, you smell the wind and the sand, maybe some of the algae tangled on the shore.
Trèfle Pur was more on the herbaceous side. People compared it to Ninfeo Mio meets the Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca. The truth is somewhere in the grass.
Vanille Incensée takes the homely vanilla and darth vaderizes it with a dark bitter note, amber and jasmine in sinister cahoots. But it’s not a villain without style, as from under its mask of darkness, a vague whiff of lime and vetiver shine through. A worthy opponent.
Orange Sanguine, which consistently comes on top of customer choice, smells very bright, just like a perfectly balanced orange that has been cut in half and covered with shredded leaves from a lime tree. It gives one a boost instantly.
My favorite though, has to be Vétiver Fatal, not surprisingly because that stuff is off the hook. A cologne-y vetiver that dabs a bit of violet leaf, which gives it a carnal, rounded smell.
Rose Anonyme is nowhere near under the radar. The rose and oud/amber combo fight it through to the end separated by good guy Hesperide who just kinda hovers between them and tries to break up the fight.
Bois Blonds was the only one that eluded me because I couldn’t smell much. Apparently it’s got that kind of musk molecule.
Oolang Infini, apparently a hit with the Asian buyers, is a subtle tea with a sparkling freesia, jasmine and tobacco heart.
Ambre Nue was a melodious amber floating through space and time accompanied by an entourage of exotic friends such as orchid nigritella rubra.
Overall they’re a really cool gang to hang out with. You can find them at Les Senteurs for about £75 for 100ml.