Thierry Mugler Through the Looking Glass
Thierry Mugler may not launch a lot of new perfumes, apart from the finely tuned flankers they release relentlessly around their core collection (Angel, Alien, A*Men and Womanity), but the brand cannot be denied its immense influence on the emergence and acceptance of the extreme gourmands. Despite finding Angel unstomachable back in the day, I found my way to it, to its slightly less demented but quite as flamboyant sister Alien, its hot-and-cold stepmother Womanity and its sexy cloaked up dad A*Men. They are one wackadoodle family.
But actually, I am just as intrigued by their distant relatives Mirror Mirror collection, which has been semi-discontinued – I can’t find them at most department stores in London where they used to hold court. Comprised of Miroir des Vanites, Dis Moi Miroir, A Travers le Miroir, Miroir des Secrets, and Miroir des Envies, the collection gives a subtler, unisex choice for those who love the company’s brand of eccentricity.
My favorite of the bunch is the Secrets one – surprise surprise. Its blast of aldehydes mixed with a most elegant peachy suede is simply irresistible. On my skin fairly linear, it has serious longevity but not so much sillage (I wish). It reminds me of another sexy suede, Daim Blond, another favorite – can you see a pattern here?
Sadly what’s left of the collection in store, at least in Selfridges, is Miroir des Vanites. At first sniff, it’s a bit overwrought even by Mugler standards and pandering to the market: I mean what else do you think when Mugler is a strange blast of fruity oud? Or so I thought initially. I left the blotter on my coffee table. Next day I enter the room and a waft of wondrous scent hits me. I get myself into a tizzy trying to figure out what it is. Turns out the blotter I left on the table had been frying in the sun for the last half hour and the heat blast just released the richest, most elegant aroma. It often happens that my first impression is wrong or my first few impressions are wrong. I guess that’s one instance in which sunlight was actually beneficial to perfume. Who knew?
The house of Mugler may have its faults – they seriously need to stop reinventing the wheel with their bajillion flankers – but they left an indelible mark on the world of scent. And also they made that coffret of scents to go with the film adaptation of Patrick Suskind’s novel “Perfume.” (who smelled that, pipe in please with impressions) That is something worth obsessing about.